We arrived in Prague from Berlin. Not fully appreciating how easy and relaxed train travel is in Europe, we got to Hauptbahn Hopf with plenty of time to spare. With no check-in or customs to worry about, we waited in a very clean café, eating fresh pretzels and milky coffee until it was time to go.
When booking this leg of the trip online from Australia, we decided to indulge in first class tickets. As far as I can tell, there is very little difference between first class and economy, but for one important detail: the average age of the patrons. And so we came to be waiting at the top of the platform with an army of grey nomads who appeared to be part of a tour group. Once the train arrived, the more senior among us carefully negotiated the small step up and shuffled along the corridor with their large cases. I was worried that German punctuality would leave us stranded on the platform, but we eventually climbed aboard with only moments to spare.
The train ride was very comfortable, and the four-and-a-half hours passed quickly. The German countryside is beautiful. Being a sunny Sunday afternoon, we saw flocks of people riding their bikes and boating along rivers, and villages built between sheer cliff faces and plush green meadows.
As we approached Prague, however, idyllic scenery gave way to industrial eyesores and derelict apartment buildings. My husband, who had found his spirit home in the orderly streets of Berlin, looked slightly off-colour as he asked ‘Why did you want to come here, again?’ I was beginning to ask myself the same question.
Feeling a little deflated, we got off at the main station, took a crowded metro train to Muzeum and jumped on the green line to the Mala Strana. We walked about 600m from the station to our apartment, rolling our cases past the old Castle walls. Our spirits began to lift as we caught glimpses of how beautiful this city actually is.
Veronika, our incredibly friendly and helpful airbnb host was there to greet us. Our apartment was amazing – very modern, comfortable, in a great location – and the view over rooftops towards Petrin Hill were to die for!
Veronika sat us down with some maps and took us through a few of the must-see places, which largely consisted of her favourite pubs and cafes in the area. While she assured us that dining in Prague is slowly getting better, she cautioned against the many tourist traps throughout the city where we’d invariably pay ludicrous prices for reheated frozen food.
Bolstered by such great local knowledge, we wondered whether four days would really be enough. We decided to start exploring right away!
Turning right from our apartment, we walked less than 100m to the Charles Bridge. Despite being cram packed with tourists, the views across the Vltava River left us speechless. Walking into the Old Town via rambling cobblestoned streets, passing ornate Medieval, Baroque, and Renaissance buildings, street vendors, buskers and beggers, we immediately felt as though we were in another world: this was the Europe we had dreamt of as children.
Dinner was at a traditional Czech pub near the apartment. We arrived late, having battled our way through wind and rain, only to find the kitchen had just closed. Perhaps taking pity on us, the waiter offered to fix us some braised beef cheeks and spicy sausages, which came served with a creamy mustard and fresh grated horseradish. Not a bad slap-up meal, which we washed down with a large glass of Pilsner Urquell.
Despite this perfect introduction, it took only a couple of days until Prague began to get on my nerves. I know it sounds pathetic, but I kind of got sick of its picture perfect beauty. It began to feel like an extravagant stage show, with the same cardboard cut-out tourists, hawkers and buskers passing us by. Surely not everyone here was on holiday. I wondered where the locals were. I found myself looking for something authentic.
On our third night, just when I thought I couldn’t take it any more, things took an unexpected turn, literally. We boarded a tram we thought would take us to a restaurant Veronika had kindly booked for us. Skirting around the city walls, we found ourselves in the middle of a residential area. Realising the tram map we had must be out of date, we tried to decide whether we should get off or stay on and see where we ended up. It was hard to judge. We were now the only tourists aboard. Outside, all we could see were rows of ugly grey concrete apartment buildings and desolate streets. On the other hand, the tram wreaked of piss and the guy behind me, who had been quietly talking to himself most of the way, was now beginning to sob uncontrollably. I looked across at another man opposite, and saw he had a bloodstained bandage on his head and was fidgeting with his broken finger.
Things suddenly felt very real. We got off the tram, certain we were now in a very dodgy area, wondering if we’d make it back alive. Of course we did, and without incident. But the experience gave me a better insight into the city. This side of Prague was very different to the majestic tourist center, but at least now I knew where some of the locals were.
Despite struggling to find my groove in Prague, I have such fond memories almost a year later. We had many fantastic experiences there, but the one that will stay with me forever is getting up at 6am to enjoy the sunrise from Charles Bridge. I had it almost all to myself. Basked in a soft gentle light, everything looked serene and so quiet.
I think that anybody who gets out of bed that early should get to own the bridge for the day. But, alas, when I re-emerged a couple of hours later, I had to negotiate a zig-zagged path into town through the hoards of other tourists trying to capture this extraordinary place. This too is an essential Prague experience.
Prague in a nutshell …
Getting there:
From Berlin, German Railways (DB) run services hourly. The trip takes 4 hours, 41 minutes and costs about AUD$100 (or 65 euro) one way.
W: www.bahn.de
Where to sleep:
Veronika’s apartment, for about AUD$120 per night. Sleeps two.
W: https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/591540
Where to eat:
Our absolute favourite place to refuel was at café called Cukrkávalimonáda (Sugar, Coffee Lemonade), which is on a quiet street behind the main tourist area of the Mala Strana. The small range of fresh and simple pastas were the best I’ve ever tasted. Visit a few times and you’ll be treated like a local.
W: http://www.cukrkavalimonada.com/en/
Where to drink:
Hemmingway Bar. Add it to your bucket list. Do it now. This place is amazing.
W: http://www.hemingwaybar.cz/bar-prague/
What to see:
Be sure to make your way to the Old Town Square at midday to see the Astronomical Clock in all its glory. Then grab yourself an overpriced beer at one of the nearby pubs and spend the afternoon people watching.
What to avoid:
Restaurants with a view, unless you’re willing to pay through the nose for frozen food.
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